Of all the rose types, the Shrub Rose is somewhat confusing because a rose, any rose in fact, is actually a shrub. Most varieties of roses can be considered shrub roses including hybrids, modern roses, old garden roses, and even miniature roses.In appearance this type of rose looks like a type of shrub, hence its name. Shrub roses are a great colorful alternative to use anywhere you would plant another type of shrub.

These rose types can be used as a screen or hedge plant for privacy, as a border, in the background, and any other way you can think to use this bountiful bush. Although the flowers from Shrub Roses carry little fragrance, they do come in a wide assortment of colors. Pink, red, white, and yellow are all common colors for a shrub rose’s abundant and vibrant flowers.

Unlike many other roses, Shrub Roses are perfect for planting anywhere. They’re “plant-friendly” and can mingle into any mixed assortment of flowers. These rose types are very hardy and generally disease resistant. Rose bush care maintenance of these is easy but they are not suitable for growing roses in containers. Many older Shrub Roses can grow up to six feet in height. If desired, Shrub Roses can be trained to grow like hedges.

It’s generally the modern shrubs that are much smaller in size. Several modern shrub rose types have been popularized in recent years. Different types of ground cover rose types such as Cliffs of Dover, Flower Carpet and Jeepers Creepers have been a treasure for homeowners with sloped or uneven lawns. They also grow wonderfully in hanging baskets and containers. Regardless of the variety you choose, Shrub Roses can be a wonderful feature at the entrance to your garden or home.

If you purchase your shrub from a nursery, you’ll want to dig a hole that is double the width and length of the pot that contains your shrub. Use a sharp instrument to cut the plastic pot away. The idea here is to disturb the roots as little as possible. Once you have the plant free from its container, place it in the hole. Fill in the remaining space with loose soil and soak the plant with water. Make sure the plant is in a very sunny location. All the different types of roses require plenty of sunlight and this rose type is no different. The direct light combined with moist soil will ensure maximum flower production.

Of all the different types of roses gardening caring for these rose types is by far the easiest. The soil should always be moist. If you live in a climate that receives very little rain during the summer months, you’ll want to water your shrubs twice a week. If you’re looking for gorgeous results and optimal growth, fertilize your roses in the spring and fall with organic fertilizers. Pruning is not necessary with this shrub, as it is basically self-cleaning. Shrub roses will release their own dead foliage, creating a neat appearance through every season. Their flowering season is long flowered by very pretty ‘hips’.'  Purchase this type of shrub if you’re looking to purchase a recurrent bloomer that will profusely bloom several times annually.

Before you plant another green shrub, consider planting some different types of Roses instead. The biggest problem you will have with these types of roses are picking from the wide range of rose types available!

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The Most Common Types Of Rose Diseases

There’s nothing worse than seeing all of your hard work destroyed by a rose disease or fungus. Roses can be weakened during the winter dormancy and become more susceptible to disease when the growing season begins.

Even if the bush survived winter unscathed, spring rains and summer’s heat and humidity can open the door to a variety of fungus infections.

Here is a summary of the most common diseases which could pose a threat to your roses.

Powdery Mildew

This is a fungus disease that produces a white powder along the tops and bottoms of the leaves and along the stems. Left untreated the plant will not grow to its full potential and the leaves will die and drop off.

Rust

Rust looks like an orange powder which appears on the underside of leaves and will spread to other parts of the plant.

Blackspot

Hybrid tea type roses are blackspot resistant, but many other varieties are susceptible.  The disease appears as circular black spots on the plant’s leaves which range between 1/16 to 1/2 inch in diameter. Left untreated, blackspot will destroy your plant’s foliage.

Rose Mosaic

Unlike most rose diseases, which are fungal in nature, Rose Mosaic is caused by a virus. Symptoms generally resemble discolored mosaic patterns and yellow and green.

The only treatment is to remove the infected plant from the garden. Make sure that you also remove all leaves and clippings which fall from the affected plant.

If you are unable to stop the spread of fungus-based diseases by simply cutting back the affected areas, see you garden supply professional and ask about commercial fungus treatment products.

You can reduce the chances of your roses being affected by fungus if you follow these tips:

Always water the soil around the rose plant and never water the plant itself.

Clean your rose beds regularly and remove all clippings and fallen leaves.

Cut any diseased canes or blooms and dispose of them in your trash can.

Practice regular pruning and pay special attention to pruning out the center of the bushes to allow air to circulate.

Seal all cuts. Elmer’s Glue works fine. It’s safe, effective and inexpensive.

Feed your roses regularly. Wee-fed roses are better able to resist infection.

Choose disease-resistant rose types whenever possible, especially if you live in areas with high heat and humidity. Remember that disease-resistant does not mean disease-free. It simply means that there is a less likely chance of the plant becoming infected if you follow all of the tips that you read here.

Rose Gardening and the climate zones

If you want to be the proud owner of a bountiful garden this year, the first thing you need to find out is which climate zone you live in. It’s helpful to know that your town gets a lot of sunshine throughout the year, but that’s not enough. It’s actually the cold temperatures that make a difference in what you can and cannot grow in your area.

Know Your Zone

Anyone who knows anything about gardening will tell you that the most reliable source of this type of climate information is the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map. Consisting of 11 different climate zones covering all 50 states, Canada and Mexico, this map will help you determine what you can plant in your garden.

When you purchase plants, they’ll come with a set of growing instructions that’ll describe the growing conditions the plants need to thrive. It doesn’t matter whether you plan to plant vegetables, flowers or plants to use as landscaping. Don’t purchase anything until you’ve checked the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map and confirmed your climate zone.

The map is quite large and very colorful. Its creation was a joint collaboration of the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) and the Arnold Arboretum (of Harvard University). The map is a compilation of years of weather data that tracked the average low (coldest) temperatures in various regions throughout the United States. Each of the different colors represents a different climate zone with Zone 1 being the region with the lowest (coldest) temperature. There, temperatures climb as low as -50 F (-45 C). At the opposite end of the zone chart is Zone 11, where the lowest temperature any time of year is always above 40 F (4 C).

The boundaries between the different climate zones for the most part lie as you would expect, with the colder zones covering the northernmost parts of North America and gradually warming the further south you go. Slight variations can be seen at points of higher elevation, again, as would be expected.

It’s easy to figure out your area’s climate zone. If you’re online, locate a website with the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map and then click where you live (get as close as you can). The map will zoom in on your region and inform you of the corresponding zone. Then you’ll know!

Why the Map is Important to Rose Gardening

Roses really aren’t as difficult to grow as most people think. They do require regular care and maintenance, but the number one thing roses need is an appropriate climate in which to grow. There are many varieties of roses and some are hardier than others, making them better able to handle colder climate zones provided they’ve been given the proper seasonal preparations. If you live in a colder hardiness zone (a lower-numbered zone) you’d want to look for roses that are bred for that zone, otherwise, you might find that those same rose types that looked so perfect in the nursery don’t look so healthy in your garden!

Basic Rose Gardening Tools

Like any job you tackle, the work is always much easier if you arm yourself with the right tools. Before heading out to your rose garden, make sure you bring along these basic rose gardening tools.

Pruners

A good pruner is one tool that you will use almost daily. There are two types of pruners on the market. One is called an “anvil” pruner, and the other is called a “bypass” pruner. An anvil pruner has blades that meet on top of each other. Bypass pruners have blades that pass each other like scissors do. Always use bypass pruners so you don’t crush your canes and stems.

Loppers

When your rose garden starts to mature there will come times when this will be an indispensable tool for cutting back old, thick canes that are too much for a set of pruning shears. If you are just starting your rose garden, save your money as you won’t need this for a few years.

Long-Handled Shovel

Choose a lightweight model with a strong handle. Shovels with fiberglass throats are good choices. Spend a few extra dollars and get one with a padded handle as it will save you lots of blisters as the years go by.

Wheelbarrow

Avoid the temptation to buy the cute garden “carts.” You are going to need a real wheelbarrow. As your gardening addiction, I mean hobby, takes off there will be no end to the things you will be hauling in and out of your garden. Some of those things will be very heavy and you’ll be glad that you have a real wheelbarrow to help you.

Gloves

“You can complain because a rose has thorns, or you can rejoice because thorns have a rose.” – Tom Wilson

The rose garden is no place for thin, whimpy gloves. Unless you enjoy feeling the thorns pierce your skin, opt for leather work gloves with those big, fold-down cuffs.

Kneeling Pads

Some people prefer the big 8″x15″ water-resistant pads with handles, while others prefer strap-on knee pads. The kneepads are more convenient because they move when you move, but the one-size-fits-all knee cups may not work for you. In that case, the pad will suit you fine.

Short Garden Digging Fork

This tool is indispensable for turning and loosening soil in small patches. Choose a good quality model with steel forks and a sturdy handle.

Watering Wand

Great for watering potted roses and for giving your other roses a good root soaking. Choose a model with a quick shutoff valve on the wand itself, and a quick release fitting for the end that plugs into the hose. Spend the money to get a model with brass fittings instead of plastic. It will last years longer.

Garden Rake

These are the rakes with the sharp steel teeth that you use for leveling and smoothing beds. Choose one with a sturdy handle and steel tines.

Leaf Rake

You’ll use this tool a lot for cleaning up clippings, leaves and other garden debris. You may want to buy both a “regular” size rake, and one of the smaller “child size” rakes for pulling debris from tight quarters.

You shouldn’t have any trouble locating a source to purchase these basic rose gardening tools. Your local garden supply store likely will stock these tools, or if you don’t mind purchasing gently-used items, check out area yard sales for your gardening supplies. Have fun!

All American Rose Selections

Did you realize that there’s an organization of rose enthusiasts who actually care that the roses you purchase live up to the highest standards of quality? Well there is and most people don’t even know this organization exists. Most consumers probably take for granted a rose’s beauty and heartiness because they think that’s just the nature of the rose. After all, how else could this elegant beauty have survived through countless centuries?

Well it might surprise you to know that not all roses are worthy of the AARS’ Seal of Approval. If a rose cannot measure up to the strict standards set forth by the AARS, the All-American Rose Selections, then it won’t get this seal that since 1983 has become synonymous with quality in the world of roses.

This not-for-profit organization of introducers and growers of roses prides itself in evaluating roses not only on how well they look, but also how well they can deal with various changes in climate and even how well they can ward off the peskiest of pests and disease.

For two long years, several new rose specimens are grown in approved test gardens that are located all over the United States. These testing areas are located in California, Massachusetts, West Virginia, Illinois, Wisconsin, Washington and 13 other states of varying climate zones to see how well each specimen can tolerate the different weather patterns.

Those in charge of the test gardens have agreed to follow the growing guidelines developed by AARS, ensuring consistency throughout the evaluation phase. The guidelines are not overly complex. They’ve been developed in a way that the average rose grower can understand which also helps to ensure that if a rose does ultimately receive the AARS Seal of Approval it can be successfully grown and maintained by anyone, regardless of their level of rose-growing expertise.

Besides the climate, the rose specimen under evaluation receives numerical scores in many other areas including its fragrance, its color when it opens and when it peaks, its foliage, its ability to flower, its buds, stems and flowers, its vigor and finally its overall value.

Each year several new specimens pass the test and are awarded the AARS Seal of Approval. Previous winners were: Julia Child, an old-fashioned grand dame, just like its namesake with a buttery gold color and excellent disease tolerance; Rainbow Sorbet, a floribunda with a medium sized flower in a bright mix of orange, yellow and red; Wild Blue Yonder, a grandiflora with shades of lavender and the scent of citrus and rose; and Tahitian Sunset, a grand hybrid tea that produces peach-apricot-pink flowers 5 inches in diameter with up to 30 petals each, finished off by the scent of licorice.

Remember, part of the testing criteria is that the AARS winners must be easy to grow by an average-skilled gardener. So make plans to visit your local nursery or garden or home center this spring to snatch up the very best rose types.