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8:40 am by webmann in gardening tips
Just last night I was talking with my wife and agreed that, before buying more plants we will be careful to examine our garden to see how much sun and shade it gets. Checking also to see whether the soil is well drained or waterlogged and whether your aspect is sheltered or windswept.
You’ll then be equipped to go and buy the best plants for each location, some shade lovin’ flowers and shrubs for the sheltered areas, a few sun loving plants for those warm spots, a few drought-resistant plants for the parched areas which may be either sunny or shaded, and swamp plants for the poorly-drained parts.
We didn’t even have our soil checked so please, take the time to test your soil first, to determine the pH level of your soil and what kind of nutrients you need to add, if any. Is the soil acid or alkaline? Most plants prefer soil that is slightly acidic, but there are some that must have alkaline soil to grow. You can alter the soil’s pH level, but it’s much easier to simply plant for the soil you have. Of course we were not satisfied with just getting those plants that suit our soil.
Now you are ready to plant. Well - almost. Will you plant in groups or singly? If you buy ‘one of everything’ your garden may seem rather spotty. Group plantings are organised, harmonious and you can vary the color for interest.
Before planting out, place your chosen plants around the garden bed in their pots to see how they will look. Re-arrange them until you are satisfied. Grouping plants in sets of threes or fives usually looks better than planting in groups of even numbers. Be sure that you have an interesting combination of colors and textures of plants. Tall plants should go to the back, or the centre if your garden will be viewed equally from all sides. Try to keep your plants away from trees. The roots of trees are fiercely competitive and will steal all the nutrients and moisture meant for your flowers.
The right color scheme is one way to maintain the harmony in your garden. Imagine the color of the flowers when they are in bloom. Some colors may clash with others, but can still be planted side-by-side if they have a different blooming season. Foliage color is also important. Many flower plants have silver, grey or purplish foliage that is just as attractive as the flower. This means that they are still attractive well past the blooming season and so have added value.
5:39 am by webmann in garden, lawn care, weed killers
A. I know the feeling. I have found a few homemade remedies and a list of suggestions to help keep your lawn free of weeds. Remember to always use caution with any chemicals, including the ones below, and to tend to your lawn with good water and food throughout the growing season. A stressed lawn is more apt to be overrun by weeds.
Weed Killer
Mix 1 gallon white vinegar, 1 cup table salt, and 1 tablespoon dishwashing liquid together and spray on weeds. To do so, remove approximately 2 cups of vinegar from the jug, pour in the salt and dishwashing liquid, then return the 2 cups of vinegar to the jug. Close the lid and shake to mix.
Transfer to a spray bottle (after shaking to mix the ingredients) as needed. It works as well, if not better, than Chemicals, but is much cheaper. Be careful, it will kill whatever you spray it on!
If you go purchase vinegar, 10% acidity, 20% acid would be better, and spray it on the weeds in the heat of the full sun, you will have an effective weed killer.
http://www.netspace.net.au/~ntbandit/hintsNtips.htm
BUILDING A HEALTHY LAWN
from Environment Canada, CBC Radio Canada
Their All-purpose weed killer:
Boil a liter of water, add 2 tablespoons of salt, add 5 tablespoons of vinegar.
Pour directly on weeds on sidewalks, driveways, etc., while still hot.
Cheap Weed Kille
From: Paula Vogelgesang
Makes a quart
Pour 4-ounces of lemon juice concentrate in a 1-quart spray bottle. Fill it to the top with white vinegar. Shake well and spray on the weeds. This is good for spot-weeding. It will kill dandelions and Creeping Jenny although if the plants are big ones, it may take more than one dose. This is really good to spray between cracks in a sidewalk.
Safe around kids, pets etc. This is basically two forms of acid so if you really soak the ground, nothing will grow for several months.
KOTA News
CHEAP WEED KILLER
A subscriber wrote that she found a weed killer in a mail order catalog, safe for the environment, biodegradable and safe for pets, for “only” $8 per quart. It was made of lemon juice and vinegar (both cheaper than $8) so she made her own formula, tried it, and sent it to me.
I tried this and it works quite well. I called my Extension Agent and he said that basically it is two forms of acid and perfectly safe around kids and pets.
He did caution that if you use too much, it could make the ground so that it won’t grow anything for a few months … but that’s okay, especially in the cracks in the sidewalks!
WEED KILLER FORMULA
In a 1-quart spray bottle, pour 4 ounces of lemon juice concentrate (you can get the cheap stuff … it works just as well), then fill the bottle up with white vinegar (28 ounces). Vinegar (on sale) costs around a penny per ounce and the lemon juice concentrate I bought was 3 cents per ounce.
For the mixture detailed above, that’s a total of 12 cents for lemon juice and 28 cents for vinegar, which means the homemade version costs 40 cents per quart instead of $8!
Shlyj writes~ Is there a good home recipe for a weed and grass killer that won’t have an adverse effect on my iris’ ?
A. Here are some products safe for your family:
Stop dandelions and weeds with all-natural WOW!® Plus. Combines a corn byproduct with a complete lawn food so you can weed-and-feed in one application.
Granulated WOW!® Apply with either type of spreader. For broadcast spreaders OR drop spreaders. Same formula as original WOW! but you can apply it with either type of spreader.
Weed Barrier Mat - Medium Weight. Peas, cucumbers, and tomatoes stay clean and less vulnerable to soil-borne diseases. Guaranteed for 3 years! Cuts weeding time and retains moisture in soil. Harvested crops are easier to prepare. 3 ft x 24 ft mat.
Original WOW!® (Without Weeds). Stops emerging weeds in your lawn or garden! Original pre-emergence weed control kills weeds and keeps your lawn green and beautiful. Nontoxic to humans and pets.
N-Lite!™ Special Lawn Food. Used with WOW!®, N-Lite!™ provides complete nutrients for healthy, thick turf. Use with WOW!® to provide the balance of other important nutrients your lawn needs to thrive.
U-Shaped Pins. Handy for weed barrier mats, floating row covers, and super-light insect barrier. Easiest way to hold down row covers and weed mats.
http://www.gardensalive.com/prog_display.asp?PROG_NBR=17
Recipe for Weed Killer:
1 oz. white vinegar
1 oz. cheap gin
8 oz. water
Mix together and pour this on the weeds and they will be long gone.
Ray writes~
I live in Tacoma, Washington, 40 miles south of Seattle, and the temperature ranges are cool, from 40 to 60, during all the spring months, and even through the month of June. During these moist, cool months, from February to June, weeds grow profusely, go to seed, and reproduce abundantly. The well known weed killers, such as, Roundup, Weed-B-Gone, etc., do not work during these cool temperature months. For them to work, the temperature must be in the 70’s and our area may not reach the 70’s until July. By July, weeds dominate everything that is not hand weeded. Please do your research and discover a Weed Killer that will work in the 50 to 60 degree temperature range.
A. I was not able to find much for you except this website. Check here for more details:
Apply pre-emergent weed preventers in late winter and very early spring to keep pesky weeds from sprouting in lawns, shrub beds, tree wells and flower gardens next growing season. An ounce of prevention is definitely worth several pounds of cure! Weed seeds lie dormant all winter before “springing” to life as temperatures warm. Get the upper hand by applying pre-emergent herbicides early to keep these seeds asleep permanently!
To clear up confusion, a pre-emergent (weed preventer) keeps seed from sprouting while post-emergents (weed killers) kill weeds that have already sprouted. Neither one will do the job of the other… Pre-emergents are often combined with fertilizer in products, like Best Turf Supreme Crabgrass Preventer Plus Lawn Fertilizer and Scott’s Turf Builder Plus Halts, to wake up your lawn in spring while making sure weed seeds never wake up. Other Pre-emergents like Portrait and Amaze Granules can be spread without feeding the lawn or other plants. For a complete discussion of pre-emergent weed
http://www.starnursery.com/tips.cfm?Tip=31
Pat writes~
Will you please provide a recipe for killing weeds? I would appreciate this so much. We, here, in Florida, have brown grass, due to no rain, but plenty of weeds. We have to watch our budget, are not permitted to water, get fined.
Lilac writes~
I was wondering if you had a recipe for weed control. We have a very large hill that is always weed infested. We have a daughter currently going through Cancer Therapy, she is 7 years old. I do not want to spray any poison around her where she can breathe them.
A. This time of year, yards are full of weeds, but there are organic ways to get rid of them. Spraying 100 percent vinegar on weeds works great. Or, trying using a hula hoe to cut weeds below the root line. The small hoe is available at any home center, hardware store or nursery.
To get rid of weeds at the roots, use Finale or Round-up. Use either product early in the morning and don’t water for at least 24 hours. Make sure the surrounding plants are healthy before you spray.
For a more potent mixture, mix a little ammonium phosphate and soap with Finale or Round-up. This works well on Bermuda grass. Contact Herbicide is good to use on annual weeds and will kill only the leaves. I like Weed Be Gone, but any brand will work. It is available at any home center.
Manage kills nut grass and purple and yellow nut sage. Pre-emergent kills weed seed in the soil before the plants emerge. Always wear gloves, a long-sleeved shirt, long pants and a hat when using any chemicals. A mask to cover your nose and mouth is also a good idea.
From: www.azfamily.com
A. That would depend upon the concentration used. If you poured it straight out of the bottle onto patches of lawn, no, it could seriously burn the areas. I am curious what weeds you are trying to kill. There are organic, safe substances which may be used to kill weeds in beds and lawns. Check for ‘Safer’ products, for one. Both vinegar and lemon juice have not been proven to eradicate weeds effectively.
A. The recommendation was to spray only on what you wish to kill. You need to aim the spray right into the center of the dandelion plant and all the leaves around it. If you spray it on grass in the heat of the day, you will kill some of the blades. It will not kill all the roots, so keep this damaged grass well-watered and do not feed. It should pop back within a month. Or, you can use chunks of sod as plugs into the areas which were damaged, as you would where pets have ruined lawn areas, simple die offs, and fungal infections. This is what the GardeningWithGary site says:
“It works as well, if not better, than chemicals, but is much cheaper. Be careful, it will kill whatever you spray it on! If you go purchase vinegar, 10% acidity, 20% acid would be better, and spray it on the weeds in the heat of the full sun, you will have an effective weed killer.”
A. After searching around, I have not located any information on a non-petroleum weed killer for your needs. The pool area must not be sprayed with any petroleum-based oil as it certainly may damage the liners. The best source said to consult your local pool supply company or the company which sold the pool and/or vinyl liners. Soy and other vegetables bases have been cited as desirable.
A. As mentioned in my page on Weed Killers, a by-product of corn syrup production, a pre-emergence weed control, all-natural WOW! (with-out weeds) Plus can weed-and-feed naturally in one operation. Ingredients are not listed, but described below.
Just the term herbicide conjures up all sorts of dangerous feelings and one wonders how safe are these products. There are several alternatives to eradicating weeds. One is to hand dig or pull them out. However, everyone is looking for something easier.
Two such possibilities are a corn gluten weed killer and a weed eraser. The corn gluten weed killer can be bought under several brand names: WOW!, WeedzSTOP and A-mazing Lawn. All three of these products are made with a high concentration of protein extract from cornmeal. They should be applied early in the spring and again in early August. They work by preventing the germination of seeds.
This may work up to 6 weeks.
Be careful and not use it in the veggie garden or on a new lawn since it will kill other seeds too. The cornmeal will also act as a nitrogen fertilizer. The weed eraser is made from a pelargonic acid. This is a fatty acid found in grapes, apples and carrots. It performs by lowering the pH level just enough to kill broadleaf weeds such as the dandelion and pigweed.
WOW! Plus controls crabgrass, dandelions and other pesky weeds while feeding lawn with a complete, balanced, all-natural fertilizer. It is easy to apply and saves you time and effort; you can weed and feed your lawn naturally with just one application. It reduces germination of dandelions and other broadleaf weeds by as much as 90% allows kids and pets to play on the lawn right after application. It provides nitrogen and other nutrients grass needs for strong root growth, stress resistance and a beautiful green appearance releases nutrients gradually, as nature intended.
How WOW! Plus Works: Soon after sprouting, young weeds send out secondary “feeder” roots that draw nutrients from the soil. But WOW! Plus stops these roots from developing, so seedlings quickly die, usually before you see any green growth! Dandelions, crabgrass, creeping bentgrass, foxtail, lamb’s quarters, purslane, redroot pigweed and many others cannot survive. Do not worry about overapplying WOW! Plus.
You can use eight times the recommended rate without harming your grass, and you’ll find that high doses are even more effective in controlling weeds. Do not worry about lingering synthetic chemicals. There are none. Unlike traditional chemical treatments, WOW! Plus is safe right after application. Start using in the Spring. Apply 10-20 lbs. per 1,000 sq. ft. when forsythia starts to bloom, through July. This timing corresponds with the time when crabgrass begins and ends germinating.
Yearly spring and fall applications at 10lbs. per 1,000 sq. ft. provide as much as 85% weed control after two years and 91% after three years. Plus it provides balanced fertilization. Applications at 20lbs. per 1,000 sq. ft. provide even better control, because the percentage of weed control increases with higher application rates. Water deeply after application. (Do not use WOW! Plus on recently sown grass, because it will affect lawn seed germination, too. Wait until after the first mowing to apply.) WOW! Plus is granulated for use in either drop or broadcast spreaders. All-natural WOW! Plus is not toxic to humans and pets.
http://www.gardensalive.com http://www.emilycompost.com/nontoxic_herbicides.htm
Does anyone know how to get buttercup weed out of a lawn without poison. I thought I heard of Borax but I’m not sure.
A. - A good nonchemical method to kill these fast growing and spreading Buttercups? Believe it or not, buttercups are pretty low on the “impossible to control” scale (compared to other weeds and grass). They pull out fairly easily and do not seem to regenerate from root fragments. Then mulch heavily with very coarse wood chips to smother and impede any new growth. Some gardeners weed with blow torches these days, but you may find that a bit extreme. Since the 1920s, borax
detergent has been used as an herbicide to eradicate weeds.
Apply borax when it is actively growing in the spring, when no rain is expected for 48 hours. The borax treatment appears to be most effective during warm summers when soil moisture is ample. If the borax solution is applied in too high a concentration, or repeatedly, it will then be toxic to grass and many other plants. This treatment can be applied only once each year for two years. Be sure to use the borax spray only in the lawn because research shows established grass is tolerant of the spray. It should not be used in gardens.
A healthy lawn is the strongest defense against weeds. Maintaining a regime of proper mowing practices, watering and fertilization will enable any gardener to combat weeds in a lawn.
Borax Solution Control: Dissolve 10 oz. Twenty Mule Team Borax in 4 oz. (½ cup) warm water. Dilute in 2.5 gallons of water. This will cover 1,000 square feet. If you have a smaller area to treat, cut the recipe accordingly.
6:33 am by webmann in garden pests, repellents
Image by Flatbush gardener via FlickrQ. I have ‘vine weed’* growing around my pond and it is impossible to keep it pulled up out of the ground. It is overtaking everything. What can I do to get rid of this nasty vine?
Looks like miniature white morning glory. Grows about two feet a night when you are not looking! LOL.
A. Well, this is a hard one to call! You do not want to put a chemical on it if there are other plants growing right next door that you want. But, you may consider a weed killer anyway to cut it down in population.
The best way to eradicate it and leave everything as is, is to pull it all out by the roots as deeply as you can go. I know it is work and can seem like a losing battle, but what else can be done? The plants will keep growing as long as there is a structure underground. Keep at it daily, and eventually they will be beat back. At least, let’s hope so!
We also cover the ground with mulch or anything that will keep the sun away from that area. That usually helps to keep things from growing there until I want something growing there.
I had a yard full of gourds, and those big thistles, and anything that I didn’t want. Now, I have elm trees coming all over my yard. I will hit them with the Roundup treatment. This is easy and gets right to the pest, without me getting it on one of my special plants.
A. That is a very unique treatment. Just be careful with those needles!
Keep areas around your garden free of weeds. Stop the life cycle of all weeds by pulling them up before their flowers go to seed. If they seed, you have to go through their cycle once again before ridding them from your beds. Keep one step ahead of the weeds or you will never control them. Be sure to toss all weeds into a garbage can away from your gardens and remove promptly.
Do not add them to your compost pile. Seeds will blow by on their own and you will have to destroy them by turning the pile up and over weekly. Any vegetables you add should be without seeds, too. Don’t forget to add other kitchen wastes as egg shells, coffee grounds and produce scraps.
8:25 am by webmann in gardening, vegetable garden
When the weather begins to warm and the days start to lengthen, most green thumbs begin to get the itch to begin working the soil in the garden. While there are a number of steps to complete before placing those seeds or plants in the ground for the season, most of the work is fairly straightforward and easy to understand. First, choose a sunny location for your garden bed. Next, prepare the soil by adding all of the necessary nutrients and ridding the area of dirt clumps and rock. Finally, plant your vegetable garden. It is this final step that we will cover here, and we will give three options for doing so.
Start Seeds Indoors
Those with short growing seasons may want to begin their seeds indoors long before the snow has melted from the ground. This can work well with either cool weather or warm weather crops, although some types of plants will not tolerate the transplant process well and are better off being sown directly into the ground when it’s time to plant a vegetable garden outdoors. If you are in doubt about whether a particular crop will thrive indoors, check the seed packet or ask your local extension office for advice. Most seeds can be sown six to eight weeks ahead of the last frost, and with proper sunlight and water will be ready to head to the outdoor bed when the freezing season is well over.
Sow Seeds into the Ground
Most seeds cannot be planted into the ground until after the last frost date has passed, and this will vary from area to area. Your local extension office can give you a precise date for outdoor planting. Prepare your soil well, by loosening the surface and adding any necessary nutrients to the soil. This will usually mean some organic matter and fertilizer that is designed for use when you plant a vegetable garden. You can opt to sow your seeds in long rows or in sections that will allow for better pollination and ease of caring for each crop individually. Make sure that you keep the soil moist until your seedlings begin to emerge and then water regularly as needed for the rest of the season.
Buy Plants from your Nursery
For those who want a head start when they plant a vegetable garden, but don’t want to go to the trouble of planting seeds at home, there are bedding plants available at your local nursery or gardening center. While this is often the more costly option, it can be more efficient because you only purchase plants that you will use. By selecting carefully, you can ensure the plants that you put into your garden will have a healthy beginning, increasing your chances of a bumper crop throughout the season.
Whether you choose to plant a vegetable garden with indoor seedlings, seeds or plants from your local nursery, your garden will bring you plenty of delights and a healthy harvest to enjoy.
9:32 am by webmann in backyard gardening, garden tools
Have you even gone to your local garden supply center only to be completely overwhelmed by all the selections? We certainly have, especially the summer of 2008.
We were ready to start planting and had all these plans to have a great flower garden and vegetable garden in our backyard this year but when we got to the garden center there was so much to choose from it was just too hard to decide.
We ended up just getting a few things and coming back another day. Being less prepared that we thought we were cost us money and time because we had to return to do it right and on our first trip we bought things that we really didn’t need.
We are already planning our backyard garden for next year so we know what we want and why we want it. We have also added eBay into the mix. We can buy certain garden supplies on eBay and get great prices.
I think the biggest part of our confusion was due to poor planning on our part. We didn’t take into consideration the height of plants and where they would need to be located for the best lighting conditions.
We have two grape vines growing on our backyard garden fence and it became very clear how important the lighting conditions are. One vine gets the early morning sun while the other gets the afternoon sun. Totally suprising to me was the fact the one getting early morning sun and shade all afternoon has grown twice as large as the one getting the sun all afternoon and evening.
Poor planning just makes for a so-so backyard garden and that’s what we have so far this years, a so-so very ordinary flower garden.
Our plan for next year’s flower and vegetable garden includes a drawing of our front yard and back yard along with the location of trees, shrubs and bushes and buildings that cast shadows on our property.
We now have a gardening book that shows us tons of trees, shrubs, bushes and flowers. They are all displayed so that we can see their height, color, lighting requirements and more. This is giving us a much better idea of what we want for each garden area.
I am sure we will save a bunch of money over the winter by finding and buying affordable garden supplies on eBay . When there is no rush to get the job done. That is where we spend more money that we should, on those last minute purchases we didn’t plan for.
Instead of being limited due to financial commitments we can buy for less and then buy more and that makes my wife and myself extremely happy gardeners.
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